|
HERE'S a riddle: what's rich, coloured and on
every rap star's list of things to include in
his next video? If you said Jennifer Lopez, then
both you and I are wrong! It's cognac. (And yes,
that wasn't a very good riddle.) I recently got
the opportunity to leaf my way through what I
would like to term as the most passionate ode
to cognac in print. Kyle Jarrard is possibly the
Abou Ben Adhem of cognac and it comes across so
sincerely; but more on the book first.
The problem with most such accounts is that most
people don't know where and when (which time era)
to start with, which bits to leave out and which
to include, all at the expense of having a book
that paints a fairly comprehensive picture without
seeming to drag on forever. Here, we have a rather
well-managed state of equilibrium. It didn't seem
very relevant at first (why is he discussing rocks
from before-fossil eras?) but as the tempo picked
up, I realised that it was all necessary to understand
the peculiar development of cognac. By chance,
I happened to be travelling in the region, and
I was thankful that Mr. Jarrard's account had
acquainted me well enough with the area to have
an idea of the hows and whys.
More importantly, it helped me understand why
one would be so willing to pay so much for an
exquisitely-crafted cognac. As a beverage, cognac
is not about an industrial formula applied in
technically stimulated and controlled environments
but, rather, an artisanal method that developed
over time and, as the purists maintain, is yet
to be perfected. This beverage has stood the test
of time: world wars, trade wars (I liked the bits
about the Chicken wars and Martini wars), financial
highs and lows, currency fluctuations, partial
treaties and regulations, cheap imitations, phylloxera
and other pest attacks, and every war France fought
- every sort of damage possible was inflicted
upon this beverage. Yet it resurfaced, reformed
and continued to evolve, develop and dominate
the markets and palates of the world.

Cognac: The Seductive Saga Of The World's Most
Coveted Spirit starts with a soil analysis of
the area in question from the Cretaceous Era right
up to the Campanile Era. Now, 135 million years
may seem like excessive history to get into, but
it is but a recent chapter in the history of earth,
and, of course, the region of Cognac. For the
interminably impatient, skip a couple of chapters
and you will find yourself bang in the middle
of the 1300-1600 era, when France and Britain
didn't exactly do much to hide their hatred for
each other. Perhaps it was the crucial location
of the region, but each time the two countries
went to war, the port cities along the western
belt (along with Cognac but, of course) exchanged
ownership.
Of more recent interest, the book looks at some
major players in the cognac market (Hennessy,
Delamain, Paul Giraud amongst others) and how
they have managed their strategies to operate
in a constantly changing international market.
It is interesting to see how each looks upon the
market, its product and its respective placement.
The book also sheds light on the making of cognac
- something that even wine-making schools leave
out. The reason: wines meant for cognac - low
on aromas and alcohol - wouldn't make it big as
table wines. Distillation, a process not too unknown
to the Egyptians (and to even us Indians), is
a completely different game. Limousin oak (something
which regular wine-makers avoid, as against Allier
oak) is used to give cognac its characteristic
colour, flavours and rounded finish.
There is no dearth of facts about cognac to be
found in this book, so even if you don't remember
which German officer saved Cognac during World
War II, you can use it to impress all with your
ease in identifying cognac varieties and finer
appreciation nuances.
One thing which I did find lacking were the pictures.
I would want this book for myself and also as
an ideal gift for friends. I would have loved
it if there were many more photos, and in vibrant
colours. Maybe there's a good reason why they
chose to keep the pictorial presentation so 'classique'
but, for me, they just didn't live up to the text.
Luckily, the author is a wizard and certain passages
are worth a thousand pictures!
The book is a true gem. For those who currently
have no more than a feeble interest in this beverage,
it will breathe life into their imagination. For
those who are already amazed by this elixir, sit
back with a good bottle and enjoy this book like
a vintage barrel that has come of age.
Magandeep Singh is a qualified
sommelier from France
|