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Review
Distilling a fine brew
Basab Majumdar
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Basab Majumdar
AMERICAN STILL LIFE
The Jim Beam Story and the Making of the World's #1 Bourbon
By F. Paul Pacult
John Wiley & Sons
Pages: 207;
price: $24.95

ABRAHAM Lincoln, arguably America's most famous president, grew up in Knob Creek, Kentucky, where his father was a bourbon distiller. Later in life when his political career was still in its infancy, Lincoln applied for and received a state licence to sell liquor and he usually sold bourbon whisky in his taverns. In fact, even today, the 'Knob Creek' brand is the oldest bourbon whisky that one can buy. It is perhaps not surprising that the paths of Kentucky's two most famous icons should cross because the story of bourbon is intricately woven into the patterns of America's relatively short but tumultuous history.

The saga of America's most famous amber fluid is beautifully recounted by F. Paul Pacult in American Still Life, an engrossing tale in which Forrest Gump meets Roots. Pacult straddles a sweeping canvas in narrating the story of the Beam family, encompassing nearly every significant event that occurred in the 200 years of America's existence. For many of us raised on the notion that premium whisky essentially distils only in ye olde highlands of bonnie Scotland, the story of bourbon makes educative reading.

Bourbon takes its name from Bourbon county in Kentucky, where Jacob Beam's ancestors arrived with the Pilgrim Fathers. Even today, 90% of all bourbon is made in Kentucky. As with French appellation wines, there are strict laws governing just what a bourbon must be to be labelled as such. At least 51% of the grain must be corn and must be aged for a minimum of two years in new, white oak barrels that have been charred.

Bourbon is essentially a family business, where one Beam generation to another, one master distiller to apprentice, passed on the intricate skill of brewing. But it wasn't all smooth sailing. As early as 1790, George Washington's debt-ridden government passed a national tax on distilled spirits that threatened to cripple the fledgling industry. Farmer-distillers across the western states rose in revolt and Washington, realising the potential of the business, dealt with the rebellion with statesmanlike foresight and calm. The excise was gradually reduced and abolished by 1802 when Washington was enjoying happy retirement, as Pacult observes, as a "gentleman farmer and a country distiller"!

Bourbon whisky and the Beam family never faced another serious threat till the American Civil War. However, this is not to suggest that Pacult's recounting of the Beam tale in the 1800s is not interesting. On the contrary, the Beam story is often incidental to a fascinating perspective on middle American social history of the times - the Protestant ethic, the marriage customs, the mores of social interaction and, most importantly, the innate spirit of enterprise that was to be the engine for America's astounding march to economic prosperity. That was to be overtaken by the Civil War.

Between 1861 and 1865, the issue of slavery tore America asunder. By the time Lincoln's armies had forced General Lee's surrender at Gettysburg, the war had taken its toll with families ripped apart and destruction of countless farms and factories.

While the Beam family business survived, spiralling excise duties resulted in new threats: the rise of illegal distillers. At this juncture David Beam took two steps that were to eventually catapult his brand to national supremacy and eventual international success. First, he took distilling to new territories up the fertile Mississippi basin, where corn was aplenty and the economy still virgin. He also started grooming his third son, James Beauregard, to take over the family business.

The impact of the latter is best described in Pacult's words: "James Beauregard was said to wince anytime someone called him James or JB or worst of all, Jim Beau. He liked to keep things simple and straightforward. He made it known that he liked to be called Jim. Just Jim Beam... little did he know how far that name would carry him and his family's whiskey enterprise."

Jim Beam not only lent his name to what was to become a world famous brand, he also reorganised and grew the business. It is also in Jim Beam's time, that the distilling business faced its greatest threat, the prohibition laws. This episode contains many a lesson, especially for India, where political expediency and a false sense of moral rectitude has driven many states to adopt similar measures. The tragic fallouts, not just the economic but also the human cost of bootlegging are well documented by Pacult. Echoes of these can be seen in our frequent and all too fatal 'hooch' tragedies arising from illicit liquor consumption.

Basab Majumdar is with HSBC, Mumbai.

The end of World War II ushered in the era of Pax Americana, especially in Europe. With the New World firmly out of isolationism and the Marshall Plan at the vanguard of European economic revival, it was time for Beam also to launch itself as a global brand. The author seamlessly links the changing course of history to the shifting story of Beam's bourbon.

Small vignettes add to the wonderful mosaic of the book. There are sidebars at the end of every chapter enumerating significant events that occurred in the time-span that chapter straddles. These are varied from political, sporting and literary events and often serves like the soundtrack of Forrest Gump, providing a definitive socio-historic perspective to the bourbon story. There is also an appendix that lists the author's personal tasting notes on various bourbon offerings, which are guaranteed to get your buds tingling.

Strongly recommended. The book, like a glass of old bourbon, is to be savoured.

EXCERPT
A much older than normal bourbon was placed in barrels that once held port at the end of the maturity cycle. Pretty bronze hue. The first aromas are intensely nutty and floral, with a trace of wine-like sweetness; exposure to air expands the bouquet adding mild, rounded scents of mints, oak char and ruby port. As tantalizing as the aroma is, this bourbon's true brilliance lies in the taste phase. At palate entry the taste is off-dry and nutty, even nougat-like then at mid-palate the flavour turns succulent, but ultimately dry and resiny as flavours of minerals. Apple butter, charred oak and tobacco leaf keep the taste buds fully occupied. The finish is long, ripe, grapy and grainy sweet. An American whiskey classic.
 
BROWSING
Sandip Das
COO, Hutchison India
I am reading three books simultaneously. THE SHADE OF SWORDS by M.J. Akbar is a personal copy sent to me by the author. It's an insightful perspective into a complex world of religious fervour that I have not been able to understand so far. Another is MANAGING IN THE NEXT SOCIETY by Peter Drucker, a provocative book by a legendary management writer whose earlier books have always made a deep impression on me. The future is always a source of fascination and some understanding of it helps lay the foundation for sound strategic thinking. Finally, there is by my bedside, a lovely leatherbound copy of THE UPANISHADS. "Towards the midpoint of life's way" we all reach a crisis and this ancient work of philosophy is just the right work to sharpen the edges of awareness.
 
Alert
Light The Fire In Your Heart
By Debashis Chatterjee (Full Circle)

Chatterjee, who teaches leadership at IIM-Lucknow, has a highly individualistic writing style. Light The Fire... is a fast read that uses real-life incidents, parables and anecdotes to convey its theme: everybody can be a leader, one just has to go on a journey of self-awareness. Since the message is a platitude, it's a good thing the writing itself isn't a jaded clone of countless other books.

 
Selection
Know the laws
 
In cyberspace, opportunities abound. And so do problems. Just a few clicks lead to that picture that you want and happily download, caring little about who owns the copyright. And few people buy T-shirts online for fear of credit card misuse.

In Legal Issues in Electronic Commerce (Macmillan India), advocate T. Ramappa breaks up legal issues arising in the cyberworld into rights in domain names, intellectual property rights, consumer protection, contractual relationships between businesses, offences, jurisdiction and privacy. Ramappa says that the Inform- ation Technology Act 2000 leaves much to be desired. Citing some of the lacunae, the author says that under the Act, a person may only raise a dispute if the goods suffer from a defect or if the service supplied suffers from a deficiency. The main aim of the law is to settle consumer disputes after they have arisen and not to lay down the basic rights and obligations of a seller and a consumer. In case of sale of movable goods, this could turn out to be the Sale of Goods Act, which is no good when it comes to online transactions.

The author touches on practically all aspects of e-transactions to point out the limitations of the existing laws. Examples show the magnitude of the problem that will arise as people spend more time online. But it does not give solutions. Also, the book is difficult for non-lawyers to comprehend. Such a book should ideally be targeted at geeks so that they understand the legalities on access to information and online resources, while educating the legal fraternity about technical aspects of data encryption and online security. If both understand each other's needs, there will be fewer frauds and infringements. This book does not help that cause but corporate lawyers eager to cash in on cyber cases might find it a useful starting point.
 
 
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